-: 99 :-
In 1953, a German Austrian Himalaya expedition was initiated by Dr. Karl Maria
Herligkoffer (stepbrother to the Willy Merkl died on Nanga Parbat in 1934). The
expedition faced several problems but finally with the support of a good climbing
team, made an attempt.
The climbing started smoothly and camps were established but due to a
deteriorated weather spell, Herligkoffer ordered all the climbers to come down from
mountain to base camp. Buhl, Kampter, Frauenbergar and the cameraman Ertl
were still in the higher camps. The had refused the retreat order and on July 1
weather turned better and on July 2
, Buhl and Kempter established camp V at
6900m. On July 3
, at 1.00 a.m. Buhl left the camp heading upwards while Kempter
followed him At 5.00 a.m. the sun rose above the horizon and Buhl reached the
Silver Saddle. The three Km long plateau taxed Buhl's strength. At the end of the
plateau, Buhl had some tea and left his pack behind to move easily. Kempter also
had reached the plateau but realized that Buhl is far away so he returned to the
Buhl reached at 7800m, and had the technically most difficult section of the whole
climb ahead of him and the last 300 meters didn't look promising. He started
climbing the rocks and reached the shoulder then at 7 p.m. he stood on the summit.
It was dead clam and perfectly clear, the chapter Nanga Parbat was finished for the
lonely man on the top. He planted his ice-axe with Pakistani and Tyroli flags
attached to it and took a few pictures. Night was falling fast as he started to
descend. At a tiny ledge above 8000 m, he had an emergency bivouac and stood
there for the whole night in exposure. At dawn he started descending and again
after a hazardous full day of walking reaching back to the camp.
The history was made and it is truly said that if anyone at that time could manage
such a climb, it was Hermann Buhl.
Nanga Parbat was next climbed by Reinhold Messner from Rupal Side.The
expedition was again led by herligkoffer. Later on Messner climbed the mountain
from Diamer face as well, while making a remarkable and historical solo climb.
A team of Pakistan climbers has also scaled the mountain in 1989 when Sher Khan,
Ata and other climbers succeeded to reach at summit.
3. Gasherbrum 1 (8,068m)
Gasherbrum means a shining wall. This refers to 3,050m/ 10,000 ft pale limestone
walls of the great trapezeshaped Gasherbrum IV peak.
There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakoram range. It was Captain
Younghusband and his party which in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier.