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Table No. 26 : Mountaineering History of Pakistan
A Norwegian expedition makes the first ascent of Tirich Mir (7708 m), the highest of
Hindukush. Kvernberg and Capt Tony Streath reached the summit.
First Pakistani expedition is launched on Tirich Mir led by Main Abdul Raoof. Other
members include Daud Baig, Arshad Munir and Capt Shaukat Malik. Expedition was
unsuccessful (Organized by Karakoram Club).
An Austro German Expedition led by Dr. K.M. Herlikoffer makes the first ascent of
Nanga Parbat on 3 June. Mr. Hermann Buhl reaches the summit in solo climb of 40
An Italian Expedition led by Prof Ardito Desio makes the first ascent of K-2 on 31
July, Archille Compagnoni and Lion Lacedelli reach the summit Col. Dr. Attaullah
accompanies the expedition as Liaison Officer Capt G.S. But as Asstt L.O.
Mr. Mahdi becomes the first Pakistani to reach the height of 8000 metres with Italian
K-2 Expedition.
An Austrian Expedition under F. Moravec makes the first ascent of Gasherbrum-II on
May. Larch, F. Moravec and H. Willenpart reach the summit.
An Austrian Expedition makes the first ascent of Broad Peak. Famous climber
Hermann Buhi, Kurt Diamberger, M. Schmuck and F. Wintersteller reach the summit.
Later Hermann Buhl, while attempting to climb Chogolisa Peak disappeared.
First Joint British Pakistan Defence Forces Himalaya Expedition with Capt Mike
Banks as leader makes the first ascent of Rakaposhi. Pakistani members were Capt
Shah Khan and Capt Raja M. Bashir.
First American Pakistan Expedition led by Pete Schoening makes the first ascent
of Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak. Pakistani members include Capt
Tasawar Hussain Rizivi and Lt. Mohammad Akram.