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Subsequently in 1934, an International Himalayan expedition of G.O. Dyhrenfurth, a
German ­American geologist-cum-climber and winner of the 1936 Olympic Gold
Medal, visited the area and after doing some photographic work on the Baltoro
glacier, made an attempt on the south-east ridge of Gasherbrum No.1 peak, which
is also called Hidden peak (8068m/26,470ft). In 1935, Dr. P.C. Visser, a Dutch, and
his party surveyed Gasherbrum glacier. It was, however, in 1936 that a strong

French expedition led by H. de Segogne tried its luck on Gasherbrum No.1 peak.
The party went up to 6.797m/ 22,300 ft where camp V was established.
Subsequently the party located a place for camp VI at 7,010m.23,000 feet. It was,
however, due to a continuous storm and bad weather that the party was forced to
abandon its plan. Two of the sherpas, out of a total of 35, were unharmed when they
fell down to 1,800 feet after being hit by an avalanche. The route adopted by the
party passed through Srinagar ­ Zoji pass ­ Dras ­ Karghil ­ Skardu ­ Shigar ­
Askole and Baltoro glacier. It was, however, an American expedition of Nick Clinch
which in 1958 climbed Gasherbrum No.1 peak. Schoening and Kaufman went to its
4. Broad Peak (8,047m)

The local name of Broad peak is Falchan Kangri. The height of main peak is
8,047m/ 26,401 ft. It is called Broad peak because of its breadth at the top. It has
also been called enormous tripe-headed Breithorn (4,165m high tree-headed peak
of European alps) of the Baltoro. In 1954 Dr. Karl M. Herligkoffer of West Germany
tried to climb it. His original objective, however, was to climb Gasherbrum-I. He is
stated to have failed in persuading porters to carry loads beyond Concordia above
the Baltoro glacier. Accordingly, the party the luggage and made an attempt, from
the south-western side, through the lower Broad glacier. It however, did not meet
with success because of a storm and a very low temperature.

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by
Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a
climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary
mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known
postwar Austrian climbers. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western
face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at
5,791m/ 19,000ft. While climbing, it made the best use of ropes which were fixed
by the 1954 German expedition. On the 29
May, all members of the expedition
left camp III for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the
base camp. It was, however, on the 9
June, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz
Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using
oxygen and high altitude porters.

It was after this climb that Schmuck and Wntersteller climbed an ­un-named peak
(7,360m/ 24147ft). In ten hours they crossed ten miles of the Godwin-Austen and
Savoia glaciers and climbed up a snow slope on skis to camp at about 6,096m/
20,000ft. On the 19
June, they ascended in twelve hours the remaining 1,219m/
4,000 ft on the south-west face of the summit, first on hard snow and then in deep
powder. They were back at base camp just 52 hours after their departure. What an
extraordinary feat of self-discipline, endurance and sheer determination. The un-
named peak so climbed is probably the Skill Brum peak of Jerziwala Poslih maps.