-: 101 :-
The other two climbers, Diemberger and Buhl, headed towards Chogolisa peak
where Buhl met his death by falling from the mountain.
The name of other peak in the Broad range is Broad peak middle/ central. Some
maps show its height at 8,016m while the others show it 8,000m. It is stated to
have been climbed in 1975. Anyhow, it was in 1976 that a French expedition led
by Yannick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style, along with main
Broad peak. This party of four followed the Austrian first-ascent route and made
four attempts but could go only upto 7,925m/ 26,000ft. The expedition had to
come back because of bad weather.
A six member Spanish mountaineering expedition climbed Broad (central) peak in
1987. Leader of the party was Josef Estruch.
The third peak in the Broad range is Broad peak North. Again some maps show its
height as 7,538m while the others show it 7,550m. An Italian expedition, which
was led by Renato Casarotto, attempted to climb it in 1982 but was unsuccessful.
The party shows its height as 7,600m/ 24,935ft. Casarotto, however, succeeded in
climbing it is 1983.
5. Gasherbrum-II (8,035m).
In 1956, members of an Austrian Karakoram expedition climbed Gasherbrum No.II
peak (8,035m/ 26,361 ft). The party was led by Fritz Moravec. It set a base camp
on the south Gasherbrum glacier, Camp No.1, was set up at 6,005m/ 19,700ft. It
was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm.
Consequently it lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few
more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart set up a bivouac
below 7,620m/ 25,000ft. Inspite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three
reached the summit of Gasherbrum No.II on the 8
July and came back without
meeting any further accident.
Source: (i) Golden Jubilee Celebrations K-2 and 51
Parbat 2004, Produced by PTDC.
The Unique Mountains by Naseer Ullah Awan.